Reculver

Reculver, Saxon Shore, Wantsum Walk and Nevergong campsite, A 10 mile walk in Kent, Saturday 15th September 2018.

 

Nethergong
Frog pond, Nethergong campsite

“You won’t get far with your walks Heather if you keep going back to places you like”.  Several people have said this to me, but if I find somewhere I like, it’s good to revisit it.   I chose a campsite because of it’s name, Nevergong.  It sounded interesting.  The campsite is in 26 acres of woodland, with  two large ponds and a smaller frog pond.  I was camping with friends and was pleased that one had chosen the open clearing in the wood next to the frog pond.  They were very small but had a deep croak.  They croaked during the day and during the night, but not constantly and it was very nice to hear them.

Pizzas
Delicious pizzas with light crispy bases, made for us at Nethergong campsite

The campsite has a state of the art pizza oven.  We had pre-booked pizzas and they were ready soon after we’d put up our tents.  My tent is lovely and cosy when I’m zipped inside my inner tent, but it was windy during the night and there was a loud sound of wind in the willow trees behind my tent and the occasional croak from a frog.

Nethergong frog pond
Nethergong frog pond near oast houses
Reculver
Reculver and distant plume of smoke

The next day we drove to Herne Bay to walk to Reculver.  On the way we noticed a large plume of smoke in the distance

Herne Bay, Kent
Herne Bay and new groynes being built
Amy Johnson
Amy Johnson statue

I saw the Amy Johnson bench again, and this time also managed to find her statue.  An inscription nearby said that this pioneering  female pilot died somewhere off Herne Bay.  The statue is life size and is captivating and she looks out towards the sea where she died.  How tragic to have managed to fly on her own to Australia and die later on just of the coast of Kent. I showed my friends the gorgeous statue of a boy holding a boat, by Paula Haughney, which sits on a wall looking out to sea and which I love.

Herne Bay
Reculver ruins seen from Herne Bay

We took the low path next to the beach towards Reculver and climbed the cliff to the country park.  There are stunning wooden benches along the walk, carved in the shape of the ruins of St Mary’s at Reculver. It was nice to be doing this walk with friends.

Reculver ruins
Reculver ruins
Reculver
Reculver ruins
Two towers of St Mary's, Reculver
Two towers of St Mary’s, Reculver

Perhaps its the location, or the shape of the towers of the ruins of St Mary’s, or nearly two thousand years of history going back to when there was a Roman fort on this location, but this feels a special place.  “Towers of Mordor” a friend commented!

Roman fort wall
Wall around site of Roman fort, Reculver

At Reculver at the ruins of St Mary’s and the remains of the Roman fort, where a wall surrounds the wide flat land the fort used to stand on, we followed the Saxon Shore path inland back to Nethergong campsite.

Saxon Shore
The Saxon Shore path, fields where there had once been sea
Apple orchard
Apple orchard, trees laden with fruit
Saxon Shore
Saxon Shore walk through apple orchard

On our left hand side were low lying fields.  In Saxon times this would have been sea, separating the Isle of Thanet from the mainland.  The area gradually silted up and the land was drained and reclaimed, like the Fens of East Anglia.  There was a broken stile to climb and some narrow bridges to walk over, one was overgrown with reeds and nettles.  For a short part of the walk we were on country roads, one crossed a dual carriage way of the A299.  Some of the footpath is both the Saxon Shore and the Wantsum Walk.

Tiny bridge
Tiny bridge over ditch
Stile
Stile on the Saxon Shore
Ponies, Kent
Ponies near the Saxon Shore path

I saw oast houses near the campsite, and heard music from a birthday party on the campsite.  The owners of the campsite had mentioned there was going to be a 40th birthday party and invited us for a drink, but we had our own supply of wine.  It was wonderful to sit by a fire pit cooking salmon and vegetables, and the pudding we invented last year of cored apples stuffed with freshly picked blackberries, wrapped in foil cooked on a wrack over a fire.

Campfire feast
Salmon cooked in foil, aubergines and mushrooms cooked in foil with herbs, sald, fried sweet potatoes
Apples and blackberries
Apples stuffed with blackberries
Fire pit
Fire pit, Nethergong campsite

A few metres away people sang and played guitars as the evening grew darker and the stars and crescent moon became brighter.  The wind blew through the reeds.  Tiny frogs croaked in the Frog Pond.  They ignored the female singing voices, but if they heard a melodious deep male voice they seemed to croak a reply, as if they were trying to join in.

Nethergong campsite Frog Pond
Nethergong campsite, Frog Pond

I slept deeply, dreaming of Saxons walking along a sea shore which existed where I had walked through fields.  I wondered if they had cooked outside, gazing at stars and listening to frogs and the wind in the reeds, or if they would have heard the sea in the distance?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reculver

Isle of Thanet, Birchington station to Herne Bay station, Monday 3rd September 2018, approximately 15 kms

Minnis Bay
Minnis Bay, Isle of Thanet

Walking on my own I decided to start walking not clockwise, but anti-clockwise, starting at Birchington and aiming for Herne Bay, with a view to getting to Swalecliffe railway or to Whitstable railway station.  I had been a little bit ill recently and this was my first decent length walk for a while.  A nice woman I’d shared a dorm with in a youth hostel suggested that I visit the ruins of St Mary’s church at Reculver.

Minnis Bay
Minnis Bay, Birchington, Isle of Thanet
Minnis Bay
Minnis Bay, Birchington, Isle of Thanet
Minnis Bay
Minnis Bay, Isle of Thanet

I parked near Birchington station and asked if there was a short cut to Minnis Bay.  I was told it was a long 40 minute walk, and was surprised that this was the third time in Kent people didn’t seem to think I’d be able to walk that far!  Minnis Bay was lovely, a sandy seaside bay in a small town.  A bunch of balloons was blowing around in the sea, too far away to reach or I would have burst them and put them in a bin.

Balloons
Balloons, Birchington

It was a beautiful day, hot and cloudless, the sky was blue and if I squinted into the distance I could see two towers, perhaps from St Mary’s at Reculver.  The first part of the path was flat, wide tarmac.  The local council has wonderful signs up saying that the paths are for everyone to share, for pedestrians, dog walkers, people in wheelchairs, cyclists and people with children in buggies and everyone sharing the path seemed relaxed and happy, apart from a young boy in a rickshaw type cycle thing with his granny, who was afraid of cycling too close to the edge of the path.

Near Birchington
On the path from Birchington

 

St Mary's Reculver
St Mary’s Reculver

I wished I’d been cycling as I dislike walking long distances on tarmac, but it was a gorgeous day and was very relaxing walking next to the sea.  The ruins of St Mary’s were visible for miles, and when I’d decided I’d eat my packed lunch there, they didn’t seem to get any closer quickly.

St Mary's Reculver
St Mary’s Reculver
St Mary's Reculver
St Mary’s, Reculver
Site of Roman fort
Stone wall around site of Roman fort, Reculver

I finally reached the ruins, took off my boots, felt the slightly damp green grass under my feet and ate my bread roll and salad.  A family were lying nearby near the edge of the slight cliff, listening to the sea and lying on their backs.  When I’d eaten my food I read the sign nearby and saw the ruins of a wall around a large, flat area.  The sign explained that this was part of a Roman fort, built when Thanet was still an island, before the area between had become silted up and drained to join with the mainland.  This explained why on my map the footpath marked “Saxon Shore Way” doesn’t follow the present coastline but instead goes inland.  Marshes and a place called Plumpudding Island lie between Reculver and Birchington.

St Mary's Reculver
Looking behind me towards St Mary’s, Reculver
Sculptures
Sculptures between Reculver and Herne Bay
Sculptures
Sculptures near Herne Bay
Glance back to Reculver
Glance back towards Reculver
Park
Park near Herne Bay
Cottage
Cottage, Herne Bay

I was pleased to be on a grass path between Reculver but very disappointed to discover that if I’d walked in the opposite direction the views of St Mary’s would have been much more spectacular.  There was a bit of undulation in the path, a lovely statue of oyxter catchers and I could soon see Herne Bay in the distance.  This was much larger than Birchington, was a lovely place with a pier which I had to walk along.  There were giant paintings of old fashioned seaside postcards, of families from many years ago enjoying their time at the seaside.

 

Herne Bay
Distant glimpse of St Mary’s from Herne Bay

 

Herne Bay houses
Herne Bay houses
Statue, Herne Bay
Statue of a boy, Herne Bay
Carousel on pier
Carousel on Herne Bay pier
Herne Bay
WW2 defence in front of wind farm, Herne Bay
Herne Bay pier
Herne Bay pier

 

 

Herne Bay pier
Herne Bay pier
Herne Bay pier
On Herne Bay pier
Herne Bay
Herne Bay

I walked to the railway station, up a residential road, stopping to check with a window cleaner that I was walking in the right direction.  “It’s at the end of this road, but it’s a fair trot” he said.  Was this another Kent resident doubting my ability to walk?

Herne Bay station
Herne Bay station

 

Small railway station, Birchington
Birchington-on-sea station

The journey back to Birchington-on-sea was very quick and I was relieved that I’d survived all the potential hazards I’d encountered on my walk!

Gull
Gull, Herne Bay
Herne Bay
Herne Bay, cannons
Cliff warning sign
Cliff warning sign, Isle of Thanet