Months ago my friends agreed to go camping with me in October. I was worried that it might be cold and we went glamping instead, near Holkham beach, staying in a safari tent on a small campsite. We were well prepared for cold weather with a log burner inside the tent and a fire pit outside it. What I hadn’t expected, was a mini heatwave (for the time of year) and temperatures in the early 20’s Celsius. We didn’t need the log burner and it was warm inside the tent at night time. We used the fire pit for cooking and experimented to see if we could warm up croissants in foil dishes over the fire, cook potatoes and sweet potatoes wrapped in foil over the grate, and between us experimented with cored apples stuffed with blackberries from a nearby bush, held in place with a marshmallow, then wrapped in foil and baked on a grill over the fire. All the food was delicious.
The walk on Saturday was from Holkham Gap to Morston. We left a car at Morston and drove to the carpark at Holkham beach turning right from the carpark to walk a mile and a half along the back of a pine forest towards Well-next-the-sea. At the end of the pine forest we turned right to walk the straight mile towards Wells harbour, along the sea defence.
We walked under the granary, once a warehouse but now luxurious flats, along the Norfolk Coastal path across the creek from the mudflats towards Stiffkey.
Gorse and clover were still flowering and there were several butterflies
Grey cloud was pushed away but fast moving warm air and blue sunny skies.
We reached the café at Morston 10 minutes before it closed and sat at a table outside looking at the boats and eating ice cream to cool down.
The following day we returned to Holkham to walk along the beach in the opposite direction, away from Wells.
There was free parking next to St Michael’s church, Woolverstone, but I went inside the church to leave a donation. An old tractor was parked outside the entrance. The church is built of flint, inside it has white walls, a font with huge wooden carvings, and some stained glass windows.
Near the church was a sweet chestnut tree, I saw several on this walk.
There are several footpaths near the church, but I took the one to Woolverstone Marina, passing the Royal Harwich Yacht Club.
A sign nearby explains that this area was the location of Arthur Ransome’s book, “We didn’t mean to go to sea” that scared me as a child, and still gives me some fear as an adult when I’m sailing and sleep on a boat moored at anchor, just in case the boat drifts out to sea and no one realises!
Signs warn would be trespassing walkers to keep to the path and not stray onto the grass in front of the yacht club. This is not a problem. I would prefer to walk by the boats anyway. You can see the Orwell bridge in the distance. I watched it being built as a child, it’s an angular, functional bridge, but it isn’t elegant and I preferred its appearance when it was incomplete and the sections didn’t join across the river.
Past the boats is an inviting looking path near the edge of marshes. I tried to walk along it a little way before turning around. It was muddy, this is a tidal river and I was there at low tide.
If you don’t want muddy boats take the footpath on the far side of the yacht club. This goes through a narrow strip of woodland and runs parallel to the river.
I often did this walk in Autumn, when my father’s boat had come out of the water at Pin Mill nearby, and I couldn’t stand the small of antifouling paint on my paintbrush, painting below the waterline of the boat, the hull and the keel, I’d stop painting and go for a walk, filling my lungs with clean air. Before long I saw a houseboat moored to a pontoon, and nearby lots of masts and buildings at Pin Mill.
I reached a very smartly painted pub, the Butt and Oyster, looking much smarter that it used to when I was a teenager, but I was pleased to see that the sign still had a lot of character. I had enjoyed coming here as a teenager, for the occasional meal. Being able to get out of a dinghy in wellies and wearing them inside the pub with the other sailors. People looked much smarter, although they were casually dressed. I didn’t notice anyone in wellies, or anyone carrying a lifejacket.
I had a bowl of soup and a pot of tea. Then I walked up the familiar sloping road away from the pub.
I climbed a few steps at the start of the footpath on the left hand side, passing two horses in a field, towards Pin Mill cliffs.
There are no mountains or high hills in East Anglia. Cliffs are just land that is slightly higher than the sea. A narrow band of woodland runs along the cliff top towards Clamp House. Through gaps in the trees are tantalising views of houseboats moored to pontoons and then of yachts sailing along the river.
Then I turned round and walked back, through the wood where chestnuts kept falling from the trees and squirrels ran through the dried leaves to collect them. Passing boat moorings where my late father’s boat used to be moored, back into the Butt and Oyster for sticky toffee pudding, wishing I was on a boat, but happy that the next best thing to sailing is watching from the shore other boats sailing past.
This was a short walk of 6 to 7 miles. The storm from the previous day had passed, and early in the morning the sky was blue and cloudless. I started walking from Lady Anne’s Drive car park near Holkham beach. The car park is about half a mile long and leads to the beach. Early in the morning there were not many cars parked there, and no one had arrived with a horse box early on. Lots of people enjoy riding on the beautiful wide sandy beach at Holkham, and I’ve often seen horses galloping over the sand and at the edge of the sea. A boardwalk leads on to the beach.
This is the widest stretch of sandy beach I know in Norfolk but a pine forest runs along the side of the beach. The shade of the forest is wonderful on a hot day, and the smell of the pine trees is lovely too. I walked to the top of the boardwalk to look at the pale sandy beach and the sea in the distance, before turning back to walk along the side of the pine forest.
It is only 1 1/2 miles to walk to the edge of Wells-next-the-sea, and another mile to walk to my favourite street near the harbour.
The path is easy to follow and leads to a car park and a café near the lifeboat station.
Then there’s a mile of walking along a straight sea defence towards the harbour. At low tide the boats moored in the channel leading to the harbour lead on their keels in the sand and mud, but at high tide they all float in sea water. I wanted to visit my favourite café again, the Albatross, the beautiful wooden tall ship in the harbour, but it doesn’t open till 12 o’clock. My walking companion suggested continuing along the Norfolk Coastal path a little way and turning round so we could get back to the café when it opened.
We walked passed the yacht club and onto the footpath towards Stiffkey. On an overcast winter’s day earlier this year, this part of the Norfolk Coastal Path had seemed bleak. In the summer sunshine it was wonderful. Near the boatyard a group of adults and children were taking alpacas for a walk.
Back at the Albatross in the harbour and I treated myself to an apple pancake.
I walked back to the coastwatch station near the lifeboat house, onto the beach passing the beautiful beach huts, walking along the sand to Holkham Gap.
I turned round to have one final glance of this magnificent beach before walking back along the boardwalk to the car park.
I arrived in Wells-next-the-sea on Friday afternoon, parking near the Youth Hostel and walking through the very quaint, narrow streets, passing rows of cottages made out the local flint. The street slopes gently upwards and it wasn’t long before I reached the main narrow street with small shops and cafes, and bunting across it. It slopes gently down towards the harbour and you can see the harbour wall and the mud flats beyond it. I stopped to look at the Albatross tall ship in the harbour which is a café serving Dutch pancakes and has a bar below. It is difficult to resist them!
I walked past the Harbour Master’s office, and place nearby where the depth of water was being constantly measured in January during the high tide and possible storm surge, when the shops had had flood defences across the doorways.
The path to the beach is a mile long, and straight, on a sea defence. Just across the road a small train takes families to the beach at a very slow speed. From the top of the sea defence I could see a very dramatic cloud formation above the pine forest in the distance.
It was very hot and sunny on the beach but there was an anvil shaped cloud formation out at sea, and when I heard thunder I decided to shorten my walk and return to the town.
The storm clouds seemed to be following me and it gradually got much darker, but didn’t stop a woman from paddling a SUP. I got back to my car 5 minutes after a hail storm started.
I met up with friends in one of the car parks, a grassy field close to beach huts in the morning at low tide. The Strood, the road leading to Mersea Islands across the marshes is covered with sea water during high tide for about half an hour. Markers at the side of the road mark the depth of the water. A friend told me about the annual sailing regatta, a race around the island and sailors have to either carry their boats across the road and wade through mud, or put the boats on trailers to take them across the road. We walked in the opposite direction to the way I’d walked several months ago, towards the boat houses on the mud flats and circling back when we realised we couldn’t cross the deep mud, back to a boardwalk leading to a path. We saw an oyster bed, like a small swimming pool near wooden shacks, a seafood restaurant, past a row of beautiful wooden houses, and out of West Mersea, the large village where most of the inhabitants of the island live. Away from the buildings we sat down near fields and mudflats to drink water and eat some fruit. In the distance we could see cars driving across the Strood.
For a short distance we had to walk on the B1025, which felt unsafe, hopping on to the grass verge when cars came towards us. This was the only unpleasant part of the walk, near The Strood. We were soon able to turn off, safely in fields, and a black Labrador was swimming in a ditch.
We walked past Maydays Marsh, Reeves Marsh Looking towards the Pyefleet channel where yachts were racing and sat on the sandy beach to eat our packed lunches.
We were much closer to Brightlingsea on the mainland, and close to my favourite part of Mersea Island. Just around the corner there was a sign warning about snakes.
It started to pour with rain just before we reached the broken sea defences, which we skirted around. After walking on the beach, looking at empty oyster shells, we had almost completed our walk and were near the beautiful, pastel coloured beach huts.
There was one final surprise, just before the carpark, beautiful agapanthus and red hot poker flowers growing near some beach huts.
My plan to walk around the UK hasn’t gone quite to plan and distracted by the promise of good walks and the best cheesecake in the world, I went camping with my friends in Norfolk. We pitched our tents at Burnham Deepdale at the camp site we went to last year. It seemed posher and much more popular this year, and instead of a well-ventilated shower block, where the wind blows through the door, there is a brand new shower block with wet rooms, hairdryers and insulation from the outside air. I preferred it before, although the new showers are wonderful. With a lot of help I assembled my tent and went to the Jolly Sailors pub, and watched my friends eat fish and chips, while I tried to stick to my diet. We walked back to our tents before the heavy rain and wind started. I had a short walk in the dark in the middle of the night to the shower block wearing jeggings, a dress over a nightie, a fleece, a waterproof jacket, shoes and a Cath Kidston umbrella. My tent survived the wind and rain and the rain had stopped by morning so I could cook beans on my camping stove.
We caught a bus just before 9.30 am to Old Hunstanton, where I first started my walks in January. We got off the bus at the post office and walked towards Le Strange Arms hotel, the lifeboat station and the café on the beach, passing the beach huts and walking onto the beach. The weather was mild and I soon had my coat tied around my waist. We walked along the sandy beach flanked by dunes and a golf course on the right hand side and a sandy beach leading to the sea on the other side. I remembered the metal gabions on the beach full of flints and the time I visited the beach in January after the storm surge when I’d found a red wellington boot washed up on the beach. It was much easier to walk in this milder weather. I also remembered walking from Old Hunstanton with two other walkers and a dog in January.
Further along the beach the sand was replaced by mud and someone found samphire and sea lavender. We missed the turning towards the golf course leading to Holme Dunes Nature Reserve. I was looking for a tumbled down shed and a sign on the beach pointing inland. Instead I saw the timber frame of a new shed and a slightly worn path, but there was no sign on the beach. We walked on, the walk was very pleasant, but realised we couldn’t cross a creek and I noticed buildings inside and people near a footpath by them. We spoke to a walker going the other way who suggested we could paddle across a shallow part of the creek with a sandy base, but we weren’t keen to do that and retraced our steps, back to the path leading to the nature reserve at the bottom of the golf course.
The walk across Holme Dunes Nature Reserve is wonderful in the summer and winter, but the winter view is less obscured by trees and brambles. It is wonderful to be on slightly higher ground than usual, with a view of breaking surf beyond the marram grass. There was a group of wild Konik ponies grazing together in the sunshine. My friends found a circle of tree stumps under pine trees so we stopped for our picnic lunch. It was lovely to sit in the shade. My friend who’d organised the walk explained that we had only done 1/3 of the walk so we didn’t stop for long, but she had made a delicious tea bread which was lovely to eat. We walked on to Thornham , walking up a hill near the end of the village, looking for the footpath sign. It was very hot walking up the road and there wasn’t much shade. I was pleased I had brought 2 litres of water with me, but by this stage was trailing behind the others, and kept stopping to drink water.
When I’d done this walk in January with a handsome man and a woman with a lovely dog, we’d had problems finding the footpath, wondering if it was before or after the brow of a hill, then just when we were about to give up, the wooden Norfolk Coastal path sign appeared. It was the same today, but in very different weather. The cold in the winter had made the walk seem like a challenge but the heat of today was also challenging. When we turned off the footpath we were under the shade of the trees, and the cold was delicious. We sat down to rest and drink water. Soon we were in the open again, walking next to fields, to a large agricultural building and then turning left towards the coast again, passing the vans that looked as if they were being lived in and a row of washing hung between trees.
We reached Blakney! I remembered the sign pointing to a beach half a mile away when I had discovered a lovely sandy beach in January which I had never been to before. I remembered my handsome friend eating chocolate buttons on a bench at the end of a walk before catching the Coasthopper bus back to Old Hunstanton. However, today was different. My friend who had organised the weekend was continuing the walk back to our campsite at Burnham Deepdale. This is part of another walk I thought, last time I couldn’t have walked any further than this. We didn’t go to the sandy beach but instead followed the footpath, partly on a boardwalk, passing reeds and the site where a Roman Fort had once stood, towards. Near a yacht club something strange happened. In heat I saw an ice cream van, selling Italian ice cream. My friends were all ahead of me on the opposite side of the path to the ice cream van. I walked towards the ice cream. “Come away from the van” they all shouted, ignoring what I was saying, “go on ahead of me, I’ll catch you up, I know where I am!” They knew I was on a diet and were trying to help me! What I didn’t know was that one of them had decided to stop for an ice cream if I had one too!
We walked on, back to the camp site, and after hot showers, had a wonderful barbecue with salads and garlic bread and wine. It didn’t rain, although it was windy. My little tent withstood the wind and felt cosy and comfortable.
The following day we went to Morston and walked a short way across the marshes to a jetty where two wooden boats were moored, each like a giant rowing boat.
Each boat held almost 50 passengers. We climbed from one boat to another and sat down. I enjoyed travelling up the creek, looking at the boats and the marshes.
It was lovely to be at sea again.
We had the mainland on one side and Blakney Point on the other.
The skipper explained that this is a site of Special Scientific Interest and that small birds called turns nest on the beach.
It is also home to grey seals and common seals.
The boat turned around so we could take more photographs of the seals.
Other boats also went past so other people could take photographs. The skipper said that it is only possible to visit the seals for 5 hours a day because of the tides. I wondered if the seals prefer it when they don’t have visitors.
We left the Shiant Isles in fog and rain. The basalt cliffs felt even more mysterious and eerie than they had the previous day. We had to return to Mallaig by the end of the week so sailed around the far side of Skye. We had seen the island on and off for several days. The skilful skipper goose winged the sails so they were on either side of the mast, the main sail on one side and the jib on another. When the sails were no longer goose wing, and there were two reefs in the main sail, I was asked to take the helm. There was a strong wind and a little turbulence from side to side and I was steering, rather badly, using a combination of a compass bearing and trying to find a dark grey shape on the horizon which was land instead of the lighter grey shapes on the horizon which were cloud formations. Did I take the boat off course a little? I think I might have done. This was only my second time on the helm, soon after my first attempt, several days earlier, we had spotted dolphins swimming across the bow of the boat and someone had kindly taken the helm from me so I could kneel down near the bow and watch the dolphins. The water was so clear that I could see them swimming under water. Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera with me that day.
We had a long sail to Loch Torridon. The skipper’s wife is a talented cook and made apple cake for everyone while we were sailing. It was delicious. On other days she had made bread and soup while we were sailing. On one of those days the boat was heeling over a lot so the bread hadn’t fully risen, but it was still very delicious! After a long sail in oil skins we saw a change of scenery. Instead of the angular edges of the basalt cliffs of the Shiant Isles, the Torridonian rocks created a much gentler, more rounded landscape. I was delighted to see that we were anchoring close to a village with a pub, but because of being sea sick on my first long sail, decided not to drink while I was on holiday. We anchored near a small island, and there was a wonderful sound of birdsong. I spent a lot of time on deck looking through my binoculars for sea eagles and otters as I was told that they lived near the island, but didn’t see any. I went ashore in the dinghy to the pub instead! On shore a tiny canon was pointing at the boat. I tried to take a photo but the camera on my phone didn’t work. After several days on the boat I was used to the rocking motion of the sea. The land felt as if it was moving slightly.
The following morning was hot and sunny.
There was very little wind and we used the engine. It was hot and we didn’t need to wear oilskins to protect ourselves from cold wind. We anchored near the Knoydart peninsular agreeing that in the sunshine Scotland is the most beautiful place in the world. We went ashore by dinghy, up a vertical ladder on a small jetty, divided ourselves into groups of runners and walkers. I joined the walking group. I was surprised how much effort I seemed to need to walk up the road, but after a few minutes of walking turned behind to look around and realised how high we were. My camera battery was flat. We walked on the very quiet road for three hours, walking slowly because it was so hot, and the views were stunning. A woman driving a post van passed us twice but we only saw a handful of other vehicles. Around every corner were more stunning views. What a gorgeous place the Knoydart peninsular is. There were small streams which my companions drank from, the water looked clear. We walked past white houses, passing a jetty to which the boat was moored, and to the busy pub. The holiday was coming to an end, this was to be our last night on the boat and I had had a wonderful walk.